ISUZU ELF 250 1991 TIPPER

BRAKE SHOES

THE ISUZU ELF 250 1991 TIPPER

Isuzu Elf 250 Truck Oil filters: @ Jan 2010

Oil Filter Bypass Sakura Z155x Equiv = $15.90

Oil filter Sakura Z333X = $9.52

A 4BE1 with 135kW ? Wish I had one of those.

A comparison of the 4BD1, 4BE1, 4BD1T is as follows

Model ----kW ---@rpm ---Nm @rpm--- litres
Isuzu 4BD1 ----66 3200 ----245 1900 ----3900
Isuzu 4BE1 ----74 3500---- 242 2000---- 3600
Isuzu 4BD1T ----90 3200 ----314 2200--- 3900

The 4BE1 was found in the NKR Models (150,200,250,300 & 400) & the Isuzu Elf above.

http://www.partstw.com/Isuzu/isuzu.htm

Isuzu Elf 250 Truck Master Cylinder Kit:

Master cylinder kit is an NKR No: SK81901 cost is $35.32 trade total = $40.60.

If it leaks chances are the leak will occur on the top of the master cylinder. Theres just 2 bolts 12mm to remove, the vaccum airhose which should be a screw clip but make sure you have a drain dish to collect the brake fluid when you crack the lines etc as it will go everywhere on the floor of your Isuzu. Take off the cylinder, remove the old kit [ see picture ] and hone it out then replace with a new kit. The old kit will have indents in the rubber bushes due to wear & check for pits in the cylinder housing. Once you adjust the line just have cracked & push your clutch in to get rid of any air bubbles then do up tight. The brake/clutch reservoir is on top by the windscreen on the drivers side. This whole operation can be done in about 1 hour if you have a honer?

Isuzu 4BE1 on the Elf is really easy to work on and accessible from the Cab lift. Tha hand brake drum is very accessible and the drum linings cost around $40NZ to buy. Just put truck into gear take off the 4 bolkts holding the driveshaft to drum and take off. Replace.

The drum handbrake linings are 4.5cm wide. 17.5 wide one side to other side at the widest point. 2 round holes one at either end then 2 msmall in the middle of the disc & 1 oblong hole. Easy as that.`LDB shoes K443 No: 9419825642806

Isuzu Truck Elf

Then you have the Vin and chassis number on the drivers side easily seen.

Isuzu Elf 250 1991 model Front Brake cylinder seized & how to fix.
Over time brake cylinders or slave cylinders on an Isuzu 250Elf truck will seize if not being used or over time.

On the Isuzu Elf they have drum brakes front and back. Its easy to fix the problem & if not leaking the seals are normally OK to reuse but check first. The problem will be rust around the top of the brake cylinder & you will need to free up but also on the housing jamming the cylinder from moving when you depress the brakes. This will come up on a COF. There are 2 cylinders on each front wheel.

Jack the truck up on the affected side. Chock the wheels to stop movement but loosen the 6 stud nuts first. You will need a long metal rod for leverage as chances on they will be tight. Once loosened then jack up off the ground & take the wheel off. You can use the wheel as an additional safety measure by sliding it under the truck but use a truck stand if you have one.

To change the brakes on the rear if duals cost can be around $1800 as atr April 2024 if you use a garage. Parts alone will be around $900 for shoes and cylinders. Most handy men dont have a rattle gun & the special long socket to take the rear wheels off.....

Next you need to take the drum off. There are 2 off centre screws holding the drum onto the inner wheel bearing housing—take these off.  If can separate the drum from the housing put the nuts back on so when you tap in between you wont wreck the stud threads –tap around & see if that frees the drum but not too hard. If not the next thing to do is take the whole internal wheel bearing housing off. You need to bend the circlip & take out then the nut & lock washer then the whole assembly will pull off. Try to do evenly.

Once off you can then tap on the flat the separate the drum from the inner housing on its flat. Use CRC which will penetrate while on the flat of the ground.
Once this is done and separated use emery paper to rub the rusty parts.
You now need to check which cylinder is the bad one. To do this lightly press on the foot brake not right down just slowly. You will see which cylinder moves & which does not then you know what one to check. Once you have the right one clamp the brake hose using a hose clamp. [Don’t use vicegrips as you can damage the line easy].

Now take off the retaining pins x2 on the brake shoes—watch the springs & retaining washers don’t fly? & best take a pic so you know how to put back. Replace the brake pads if they need.

Then remove the 4 bolts on the back of the brake drum & the line or lines running to the affected slave cylinder.

Take off the adjustment clip with a Philips screw driver then take the rubber boot off the cylinder. Normally the adjuster is not coming out & stuck fast. Put in a vice the prise away the cylinder with the adjuster cutouts from the cylinder body. Inspection & replace parts needed esp if leaking.
Again use 400 wet & dry sanding paper to clean the outer & cylinder housing. Wind down the adjuster in the middle to neutral as you can adjust later once the wheel is back on.

Now do the reverse and put the slave cylinder back on the brake housing & do up the lines and 4 bolts. Then put each brake pad on using the middle spring & washers. Start with the top one then the bottom one. Have the 2 main springs on before you pull down the bottom one but you don’t need to place into the centre cylinder mounting slot yet. Use vice grips opened to near the size of the washer so you can push in then turn to lock the pin on the washer. Once done then drag the shoes down to their slots & you can usually do this using grips on the metal edge of the shoe [not on the bonded or riveted shoe] & youre ready to put the inner wheel bearing housing & then the hub and wheel back on.

Leave the clamp on until youre ready to bleed the brakes. However on this Elf its easy esp a tipper as you can raise the bin then work on the brake bleeding/ The 91 Elf has only 3 nipples. On right hand drive the back one is on the right side nothing on the left then one each on the front wheels.

Use a bottle hose to make sure you clear the lines of air.  You can buy at Supercheap if in NZ & the bottle has a magnet to clip o to the body work about the nipple. You can then see the brake fluid and bubbles as you bleed from the furtherest which is the rear right side to the passenge saie then to the drivers side. Check the fluid after each wheel. The brake fluid reservoir in above the dash on the drivers die by the door.

Once done then you need to adjust the cylinder up—with wheel off the ground take the rubber cap off the back where the cylinder ratchet will be then slowly turn the ratchet on the housing while turning the wheel until you feel its biting. That’s it.

Isuzu Elf 250 1991 model Front Brake cylinder seized & how to fix.
Over time brake cylinders or slave cylinders on an Isuzu 250Elf truck will seize if not being used or over time.

On the Isuzu Elf they have drum brakes front and back. Its easy to fix the problem & if not leaking the seals are normally OK to reuse but check first. The problem will be rust around the top of the brake cylinder & you will need to free up but also on the housing jamming the cylinder from moving when you depress the brakes. This will come up on a COF. There are 2 cylinders on each front wheel.

Jack the truck up on the affected side. Chock the wheels to stop movement but loosen the 6 stud nuts first. You will need a long metal rod for leverage as chances on they will be tight. Once loosened then jack up off the ground & take the wheel off. You can use the wheel as an additional safety measure by sliding it under the truck but use a truck stand if you have one.

To change the brakes on the rear if duals cost can be around $1800 as atr April 2024 if you use a garage. Parts alone will be around $900 for shoes and cylinders. Most handy men dont have a rattle gun & the special long socket to take the rear wheels off.....

Next you need to take the drum off. There are 2 off centre screws holding the drum onto the inner wheel bearing housing—take these off.  If can separate the drum from the housing put the nuts back on so when you tap in between you wont wreck the stud threads –tap around & see if that frees the drum but not too hard. If not the next thing to do is take the whole internal wheel bearing housing off. You need to bend the circlip & take out then the nut & lock washer then the whole assembly will pull off. Try to do evenly.

Once off you can then tap on the flat the separate the drum from the inner housing on its flat. Use CRC which will penetrate while on the flat of the ground.
Once this is done and separated use emery paper to rub the rusty parts.
You now need to check which cylinder is the bad one. To do this lightly press on the foot brake not right down just slowly. You will see which cylinder moves & which does not then you know what one to check. Once you have the right one clamp the brake hose using a hose clamp. [Don’t use vicegrips as you can damage the line easy].

Now take off the retaining pins x2 on the brake shoes—watch the springs & retaining washers don’t fly? & best take a pic so you know how to put back. Replace the brake pads if they need.

Then remove the 4 bolts on the back of the brake drum & the line or lines running to the affected slave cylinder.

Take off the adjustment clip with a Philips screw driver then take the rubber boot off the cylinder. Normally the adjuster is not coming out & stuck fast. Put in a vice the prise away the cylinder with the adjuster cutouts from the cylinder body. Inspection & replace parts needed esp if leaking.
Again use 400 wet & dry sanding paper to clean the outer & cylinder housing. Wind down the adjuster in the middle to neutral as you can adjust later once the wheel is back on.

Now do the reverse and put the slave cylinder back on the brake housing & do up the lines and 4 bolts. Then put each brake pad on using the middle spring & washers. Start with the top one then the bottom one. Have the 2 main springs on before you pull down the bottom one but you don’t need to place into the centre cylinder mounting slot yet. Use vice grips opened to near the size of the washer so you can push in then turn to lock the pin on the washer. Once done then drag the shoes down to their slots & you can usually do this using grips on the metal edge of the shoe [not on the bonded or riveted shoe] & youre ready to put the inner wheel bearing housing & then the hub and wheel back on.

Leave the clamp on until youre ready to bleed the brakes. However on this Elf its easy esp a tipper as you can raise the bin then work on the brake bleeding/ The 91 Elf has only 3 nipples. On right hand drive the back one is on the right side nothing on the left then one each on the front wheels.

Use a bottle hose to make sure you clear the lines of air.  You can buy at Supercheap if in NZ & the bottle has a magnet to clip o to the body work about the nipple. You can then see the brake fluid and bubbles as you bleed from the furtherest which is the rear right side to the passenge saie then to the drivers side. Check the fluid after each wheel. The brake fluid reservoir in above the dash on the drivers die by the door.

Once done then you need to adjust the cylinder up—with wheel off the ground take the rubber cap off the back where the cylinder ratchet will be then slowly turn the ratchet on the housing while turning the wheel until you feel its biting. That’s it.

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